Day 8: February 17th, 2021.
The one with the Elephant’s Trunk.
The day dawned overcast and with a light drizzle falling in Taipei. However, the forecast suggested things would clear by midday and so we set off for Keelung. Two of us (Rich and Rich) took the bus from Shilin – a quick, cheap and convenient means of transport we discovered – which took around 30 minutes to drop us outside a well-placed Starbucks where Elaine soon met us (having been transported in style by her son) so we piled into her people carrier and set off for our first destination, Baimiweng Fort 白米甕砲台.
Alas, despite our enthusiasm and willingness to scale a few walls here and there if need be, the fort was definitely closed and we had to abandon our plans to visit. Fortunately, having the people carrier to hand meant we had no need to walk or search for taxis, but could immediately depart for our next destination, Heping Island 和平島.
Our start of the day photo was taken by a friendly passerby as we stopped to admire the brightly coloured houses backing on to the harbour, just before Heping Island. The vivid colours were in stark contrast to the rather drab (albeit typical) shopfronts we had driven past moments before and brought with them a number of pleasant associations. We all agreed, if you squinted a bit, narrowed your field of vision and opened up your imagination, you could be in Venice or Copenhagen.
Moments later, we were at the Park entrance. We waved goodbye to Elaine’s son, paid our entry fee and set off for a wander around this fascinating piece of coastline. Reminiscent of Yehliu, it nevertheless had its own charm and an abundance of delightful views and features. Keelung itself, and Heping island as the key geographical element that ensures its excellence as a harbour, has seen many nations fighting over its strategic importance. From Spanish, Dutch, French and British to Qing and local aboriginal tribes, all have passed through this coastline, and the first stop on our walkabout, was Wan Shan Gong (Temple of all Goodness) that was built to provide a resting place for many of the early settlers.
A brief stroll took us to a site called Alabao Bay, which, according to the signage has been “elected as one of the 21 Most Beautiful Sunrise Viewing Spots in the world”. Given we were there mid-morning, in grey and damp conditions, it was hard to imagine this could be true, but we still enjoyed the tofu rocks and tried our best to picture what the rock formation known as “The Leopard” might consist of when the tide was out. Strolling around there were a number of weird and wonderful shapes, as well as passing reference to historical events, such as the Dutch Cave, where some hapless Dutch soldier had scribbled his last words before being caught by local tribesmen.
After enjoying identifying the many creatures’ shapes that had been helpfully pointed out by signs on the cliff path, we arrived at a delightful set of tidal pools and a well-maintained man made sandy beach. Both looked like good spots to visit when the weather was warmer. We ended our jaunt in the park with a brief stop at the visitors’ centre, which had a good display of local handicrafts and a special plea for environmental awareness, which was heartwarming to see.
After leaving the park, we wended our way around the coast, past the Aboriginal village of Heping Island, past the containers’ yard and over a bridge, with the ubiquitous fishermen, until we emerged at the entrance to National Taiwan Ocean University. We continued to follow the harbour around, stopping to admire a few small yachts that dotted the roadways before arriving at Badouzi Marina and Fishing Harbor. The marina was a curious mix of working fishing craft, Gin Palace style motor yachts and the occasional lovely sailing boat. Given the lack of marine leisure industry (a theme we have touched on before) it led to much speculation as to who owned these sleek craft.
By now, the weather was clearing nicely, although a good wind was blowing, as it always seemed to be on this stretch of coast. We loped on, passing by variegated fishing and industrial detritus, including what looked like a semi abandoned China Petroleum Building, that was however, saved from our further disdain due to the rather lovely paintings of local scenes that had been carefully framed and attached to the outside walls. A more modern, and rather more typical Taiwanese “可愛ke ai” art piece had been passed moments earlier, at a police station, which consisted of a Robocop style creature, piloted by a cute cat!
Our second major destination, however, was just ahead – Baidouzi Seaside Park. Following the trail brought us to various viewing points that offered panoramic views over the coastline, including Keelung Harbour, Keelung Islet and further afield back towards Yehliu whilst also showing us the final destination of the day -the Shenao Peninsula. The inevitable block house next to the trail reminded us again of Taiwan’s recent history and the precariousness of the island’s current political position.
But with the wind blowing, a ray or two of sunshine peeking out and the parks various migratory birds making their presence known, it was not the time to contemplate such weighty matters, but rather to exercise our charms on a local lass, and persuade her to open the shipping container that housed the bar, and pull us a pint of the local brew, Buckskin.
Our thirst suitably quenched, we headed on, this time to wander through Chaojing Park and then on towards Shenao. This stretch saw us do some road walking, although there were parts with grassy verges, which would have been pleasant, but for the overflowing empty boxes of fireworks, a testament to the recent Lunar New Year celebrations. It never ceases to annoy that folk cannot take away the empty containers they bring stuff in and the contrast between the refuse strewn roadside, and the environmental consciousness displayed at Heping island Visitor Centre could not have been clearer.
We bypassed a number of pleasant looking restaurants, coffee shops, and even a small railway that apparently ventures a short way into the mountain side, offering a theme park like attraction. There was also a bust of a Mr. Jian, who apparently died while trying to save a swimmer in trouble. Sadly, not the first one of these we have seen (although obviously the first, and only, to Mr. Jian) and probably not the last, given the large numbers of Taiwanese that cannot swim.
At last, after nearly 20km of walking, we arrived at our final destination, the Elephant Trunk rock formation 象鼻岩, situated within Shenao Fishing Harbour 深澳漁港. Very few folk were visiting which meant we had the place almost to ourselves, apart from one rather lonely, and chilly, guard, who was ensuring no one stepped over the safety ropes. In times past a few folk have fallen from the rocks and drowned, so it seemed sensible that he was there and we were grateful as it meant we could get a photo of all 3 of us to finish the day’s walk.
A quick stroll took us back to the harbour entrance, where we arranged for a taxi to collect us, while we supped a few beers at a fisherman’s tavern. Our evening ended sampling the delights of Keelung Night Market, and a sumptuous meal at a local 熱炒 /rechao before grabbing the bus back to Taipei.
End of Day 8: Rich MN.